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Security Checklist THE HOME AND GARDEN Most of us have the misconception that the average burglar is a " Master Criminal" who watches your movements for days and plans his burglary meticulously. In reality a burglar is usually a young man looking for an easy way into your home to steal your property without being observed or disturbed. If positive action is taken you can substantially reduce the chance of your home being the subject of a burglary. The more you can do to dissuade a prospective thief - the safer you are. Some criminals have realised that they don't have to go to all the trouble of breaking into your house if they can simply get you to invite them in! Most people assume that doorstep crooks only prey on the old and vulnerable but any one can become a victim, and all of us can take simple steps to prevent the crime. First let us reassure you. You've probably had nothing but genuine callers at the front door, but it's worth taking a few seconds to check each caller at the door properly. Doorstep crooks come in many guises. Here are just a few. DOGS Sometimes a dog can be a deterrent, but most have the instinct to protect their owners and will simply ignore a burglar if no one is at home. In addition, most dogs are family pets and are not properly trained to be guard dogs. Also your dog will probably not be there when you go on holiday, or go out for the day, so please don't use them as your sole deterrent. Generally burglars don't relish the thought of being disturbed by the house holder and usually burgle unoccupied houses. If you can keep the thief guessing if you are home or not it will act as a major deterrent. You can convince them someone is in the house by using plug in timers to randomly switch lights on and off throughout your home. Devices are also available that fit between the lamp and the actual light bulb. Radios can be connected to such devices to provide `lived in` sounds to dissuade unwanted visitors. Chat channels are better than music channels for this application. You can also arrange for neighbours to open and close curtains in your absence, and you can do the same for them when they are away. Please Note Louvre windows on the ground floor should be avoided. If they are fitted and cannot be replaced a glazing firm should be able to secure each pane of glass with a strong adhesive to prevent a thief removing the panes and climbing through the open window. There are several types of external lighting: IN THE GARDEN The importance of stopping burglars and prowlers from wandering around your garden is obvious. The only problem is that most people don't want their gardens to end up looking like a prisoner of war camp with barbed wire and machine gun posts around the perimeter! The good news is that we can use good old mother nature to solve many of our security problems. For instance, a hedge made from prickly bushes would deter most thieves from pushing through them, and prickly climbers placed near to walls would stop most of our unwanted visitors climbing over. Trees too can be used as an effective barrier. Holly such as Illex leylandii would still provide privacy, but few thieves would be able to get through! The hawthorn Paul Scarlet Coccinae Plena has lovely scarlet coloured blossoms and an equally impressive thorny array, and is probably the best choice for an average back garden. Drain pipes giving access to flat roofs and windows can be protected with barbed wire or anti climbing paint. But just think how much nicer a rambling rose such as Leverkusen would be. It grows to about ten feet high and produces lovely pale yellow flowers. Now that we have this nice security around the garden don't forget the garage or shed. Valuable electrical items should really be best stored in the home if your shed is particularly vulnerable. But if it is - do something about it! A good quality hasp and staple with a padlock is important on all sheds and side doors to garages. Remember to use a hasp and staple that can be bolted to the door and frame for extra strength. Remember to postcode tools, If it is impractical to use an ultra violet pen consider engraving instead. Lawn mowers can cease to be an attractive target if your postcode and house number is indelibly marked on them. Glue smeared over heads of screws in the hinges of shed doors or the side door of a garage will prevent a thief simply unscrewing them. Alternatively consider replacing them with special tamper proof screws that cannot be unscrewed. Always lock cycles to something fixed or bulky while in the shed or garage,and have them post coded. Many cycle dealers provide this service for a small charge. And finally... please don't leave spades, ladders and the like lying around the garden. They only provide a prospective burglar with handy tools to use when burgling your home! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Natural protection One of the best ways to keep thieves out is to use nature's own defence mechanisms to stop intruders. A barrier of prickly hedge may be all the protection you need around your property. Here are some suggestions for plants to use. WARNING: We have tried to identify the plants mentioned by their correct botanical name, but we cannot guarantee that the plant you buy will not grow into a small, fragrant flowering shrub with no more thorns than a daisy. Creeping Juniper Juniperis horizontalis 'Wiltonii' - Also known as 'Blue Rug' because it has long branches and its prostrate shape forms a flattened blue carpet. It has a thorny stem and foliage. Blue Spruce Picea pungens 'Globosa' - Rigid branches, irregular dense blue, spiky needles. Height 1-1.25m x 75cm - 1 m. Slow growing. Moist rich soil. Common Holly Ilex agulfolium - Large evergreen shrub, dark green spiked leaves. Large red berries on female plants only. Any well drained soil. Plant with garden compost and bone-meal. Giant Rhubarb Gunnera manicata - Giant rhubarb-like leaves on erect stems, abrasive foliage. Can grow up to 2.5m high. Plant by water-side for effect. Golden Bamboo Phyllostachys aurea - Very graceful, forming thick clumps of up to 3.5m high. Less invasive than other bamboos. Hardy. Young shoots in spring. Chinese Jujube Zizyphus sativa - Medium sized tree with very spiny pendulous branches. Leaves glossy bright green. Bears clusters of small yellow flowers. Firethorn Pyracantha 'Orange Glow' - Flowers white in June, with bright orange-red berries. Thorny stem. Height 10-15ft. Suitable for north or east-facing wall or as impenetrable hedging. Shrub Rose Rosa 'Frau Dagmar Hastrup' - Excellent ground cover, pale pink flowers, very thorny stem. May to September. Plant with garden compost and bone-meal. Pencil Christmas Tree Picea abias 'Cupressina' - Medium-sized tree of columnar habit, with ascending spiky branches. Attractive form with dense growth. Avoid dry chalky soils. Juniper Juniperus x media 'Old Gold' - Evergreen. Golden-tipped foliage. Prickly foliage. Height 2ft. Spread 6ft. Low growing. Excellent ground cover. Purple Berberis Berberis thunbergil 'Atropurpurea' - Rich purple foliage. Thorny stem. Medium-sized deciduous. Any soil sunny position. Mountain Pine Pinus mugo 'Mughus' - A very hardy, large shrub or small tree, with long sharp needles, of dense, bushy habit. Leaves in pairs, 3 - 4cm long, rigid and curved, dark green, cone. Blue Pine Picea pungens 'Hoopsii' - Small to medium-sized tree, spiky needled stem, densely conical habit, with vividly glaucous blue leaves. Likes moist, rich soil. Oleaster Elaeagnus angustifolia - Small deciduous tree, about 4.5 to 6 m (15 to 20 feet) high. Smooth, dark brown branches that often bear spines and narrow, light green leaves that are silvery on the undersides. The flowers are small, greenish, fragrant, and silvery-scaled on the outside, as are the edible, olive-shaped, yellowish fruits, which are sweet but mealy. Hardy, wind resistant, tolerant of poor, dry sites, and thus useful in windbreak hedges. Blackthorn Prunus spinosa - Also called Sloe; spiny shrub. Usually grows less than 3.6 metres (12 feet) tall and has numerous, small leaves. Its dense growth makes it suitable for hedges. White flowers. Bluish-black fruit is used to flavour sloe gin. Fuschia-flowered Gooseberry Ribes speciosum - Fruit bush, spiny, produces greenish to greenish-pink flowers in clusters of two or three. Extremely hardy, thrive in moist, heavy clay soil in cool, humid climate. In addition, the following thorny plants can also be considered: Aralia, Chaenomeles, Colletia, Crataegus (including hawthorn/may), Hippophae (sea buckthorn), Maclura, Mahonia, Oplopanax, Osmanthus, Poncirus, Rhamnus, Rosa (climbing & shrub roses), Rubus (bramble), Smilax, Prickly ash (Zanthoxylum). Although they will take some time to grow, the end result justifies the effort. They should deter even the most determined burglar. Hedges and shrubs in the front garden should be kept to a height of no more than 3' in order to avoid giving a burglar a screen behind which he can conceal himself. For further information and advice please contact the crime prevention officer at your local police station. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What you can do Put away all tools and equipment and ensure that all outside sheds and store cupboards are securely locked when not in use. Bring the tools inside if you do not have a garden shed or outbuilding. Use plant protection - such as thorny shrubs. Install outside security lighting which comes on automatically. If you have a burglar alarm, why not extend it to cover outbuildings and sheds? Photograph valuable garden plants or ornaments. Mark your property with your postcode. This makes stolen property easier to trace and it can be positively identified as yours. Check that your household insurance policy covers theft from your garden and outbuildings. If you have a local Neighbourhood Watch Scheme, why not join? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Considerations Start by looking at your property from the front. Avoid hidden areas where intruders can lurk unseen by making it as clear and open as possible with view lines into the garden. At least have a clear area above waist level so any intruders will be clearly visible. Consider security lighting for any areas that are in deep shadow at night and gravel paths to prevent a silent approach. Gravel paths and drives are an ideal way of cheaply and unobtrusively discouraging thieves from your garden. The gravel makes a loud noise underfoot which carries well at night, when any thief relies on moving around silently. For this reason, it is also worthwhile putting gravel near house windows or doors, as the noise of any movement on it may wake the owners or any dog. Make the back garden a difficult area to access with prickly hedging or fencing around the perimeter. You may need planning permission for fencing over 2m (6ft 6ins) high at the back and 1m (3ft) high to the front of your property. Check with your local planning office. If you live in a conservation area, then check whether there are any other restrictions which apply. Fences The most vulnerable part of the house is at the rear. According to the 1996 British Crime Survey some 60% of all domestic burglaries took place via the rear or side windows and doors. This is a national average and can vary enormously depending on the amount of rear or side access. If burglars can be stopped from reaching these points an actual attack on the house itself will have been deterred. It has been said that a 2 metre (6'6") fence all around the back garden will help keep the house secure but, unfortunately, most burglars are quite athletic and such a fence can be scaled. If the fence is topped with 30 to 45cms (12-18") of open-ended or other similarly weak trellising, i.e. that cannot support the weight of a human, the prospective burglar will be unable to climb it without a risk of being seen and physically breaking the trellising. The noise of this alone and the risk of injury is a deterrent in itself. As an alternative to trellis a plant can be grown along a series of wires stretched between post extensions. All types of perimeter fencing can be softened with the right species of plants thereby reducing what can often be seen as an overly aggressive method to reduce criminal opportunity. Fence toppings can also be given the green finger treatment. For example, barbed wire can be replaced with a climbing rose so long as sufficient supports have been stretched along the top of the fence. If the barbed wire is firmly fixed and not easily removed, you could use this as the support for the plant. Single strands of barbed wire along the top of a fence are fairly easy to overcome requiring a couple of cuts with some wire cutters. A mature rose climbing along and over the top of the wall or fence will offer a far more substantial barrier. Hedges and shrubs in the front garden should be kept to a height of no more than 3' in order to avoid giving a burglar a screen behind which he can conceal himself. Gravel paths prevent a silent approach and might alert the occupier to somebody's presence. If you are considering erecting barbed wire or other such fence topping, it must comply with Section 164 of the Highways Act 1980. The general rule to be applied is to ensure that reasonable steps are taken to prevent injury. It must not overhang and must incline inwards. Gates Solid wooden gates offer easy entry for thieves because they are sturdy to climb and tend to be tucked away at the sides of houses. Make these harder to climb by covering the cross members with a panel so there isn't't an obvious foothold. Unlikely though it may sound, wrought iron gates may be a far more effective deterrent. Their ornamental ironwork makes climbing difficult and any intruders can be seen through them. It's always wise to use at least two locks on a gate if possible. For example, on a wooden gate you could use a padlock and hasp at the top plus a barrel bolt near the bottom and in the case of a wrought iron gate, a thick heavy chain with a padlock. If the burglar can't go over or through the gate, he may decide to try to take it off completely, so it's important to try to prevent this. This can be done by either welding the hinges shut, or positioning the metal pins in each hinge so that they slide in place at different angles to each other. Precautions Don't make a burglar's life any easier by leaving gardening tools available to act as the perfect tool with which to force his entry. Always lock them away securely after use. Likewise, do not leave ladders to provide easy access to otherwise inaccessible parts of your house. They should be chained and padlocked to a strong post or wall. Consider installing a domestic style CCTV camera, linked to your TV/video, to overlook your garden. Not only will it add an extra element of security to your home but it can also offer you the benefit of being able to observe your garden and its wildlife at close quarters from the relative seclusion of your living room. This can be further enhanced by the installation of low pressure sodium lighting within the garden itself, activated by a photo-electric cell, making it both more attractive and secure after dark. As a word of warning, if you do install a recordable CCTV system, give serious consideration to including a dedicated video recorder securely located within the house; if you connect the cameras to your household video recorder and you have the misfortune to suffer a burglary, not only could the recorder be taken but the recorded evidence with it. Costly garden furniture and valuable ornaments, such as statues or stone planters, can be further protected by remote movement detectors. These are suitable only for heavy objects which would not be affected by wind or casual vibration. Alternatively, you may prefer to anchor these items to the ground - even valuable plants can be treated in the same way. Hanging baskets are certainly worth protecting; secure or locking brackets are available for this purpose. Always property mark your gardening equipment and valuables with your postcode and house number (see the section on Property Marking at the end of this report). In most cases engraving will be the most suitable method. Garden Sheds Garden sheds are a very popular target with burglars and are often overlooked when security is being considered. The value of the contents, such as garden mowers, strimmers and cycles etc. can often add up to many hundreds of pounds. It is therefore wise to secure the shed door with at least one heavy duty hasp and closed-shackle padlock. It may not always be appropriate to fit a heavy duty padlock, hasp and staple as the shed door and frame may not be strong enough to support them. There is a range of smaller but sturdy padlocks, padbolts, hasps and staples which would be suitable. Whether fitting heavy duty devices or otherwise, always use coach-bolt fixings through the door and frame. All opening windows require good window locks. In addition to fitting external physical security to your shed, it is worth considering the installation of an alarm. This does not mean a complete burglar alarm system, though, if your house already has such an installation, it may be possible for it to be extended to the shed. There are various stand-alone devices on the market specifically designed for remote use in garages or sheds, which fall into two main categories: a passive infra-red detector within the shed to detect movement and body heat a door contact system Both systems will operate a sounder if the shed is accessed without the correct de-activation. They are available with battery or mains power supply and can be purchased from your local locksmiths, D-I-Y or discount store. The major problem with vulnerable garden sheds is that they provide burglars with an arsenal of house breaking implements, e.g. the versatile garden spade: because of the blade size and the leverage that can be exerted, few door or window locks can withstand a prolonged attack from this implement. If the shed is too fragile to secure adequately, the spade should either be bolted or padlocked to a heavy bench or frame, or, better still, kept in a more secure place such as a locked garage. Alternatively, your tools can be secured by chaining them together. Consider the use of a strong lockable box or cage within the shed in which you can store not only your garden tools but also insecticides, weed killers or other items which may be harmful to health or plants if improperly used. Garages Garages are frequently used for storing not only cars, motor bikes and cycles, but also property similar to those found in garden sheds, as well as DIY power tools and sporting equipment. Considering the value of the property contained therein, security precautions are often found to be wanting, and for this reason they are identified by burglars as easy targets. If you already have a burglar alarm system, why not extend it to the garage? Alternatively, there are various stand-alone alarm devices on the market specifically designed for remote use in garages or sheds, which fall into two main categories: a passive infra-red detector within the shed to detect movement and body heat a door contact system Both systems will operate a sounder if the garage is accessed without the correct de-activation. They are available with battery or mains power supply and can be purchased from your local locksmiths, D-I-Y or discount store Ladders should also be chained and padlocked to a strong post or a garage wall. Wooden Double Leaf Doors It would be preferable to secure the doors with a heavy duty hasp and staple, coach bolted through the doors, together with a closed shackle padlock. Up and Over Doors It is probably best not to rely solely on the centre lock provided. If the door is the only means of entry to the garage, it should be fitted with a hasp and staple, together with a padlock as above. There are also mortice locks specially designed for garage doors that close into the side frame. Before fitting, take note of the gap between the door and the frame, as some of the bolts have only a short throw. If there is another exit/entrance, and the door opens along runners, consider drilling through one of the runners just behind the wheel in the closed position, inserting a long bolt to stop the wheel moving along the runners. If the door operates on a hinged bar and not runners, drill through the side metal frame and pass a padlock through this hole and around the hinged bar to stop the door lifting. Exit / Entrance Doors If opening inwards this should be fitted with a 5 lever mortice (deadlock), and, if opening outwards, should additionally be fitted with hinge bolts. If the door is not thick enough to take a mortice lock, it should be fitted with a heavy duty hasp and staple, coach-bolted through the door, together with a closed shackle padlock. Burglary Prevention Advice Burglary victims often wonder why the burglar picked on their house. To find out you need to consider: "How does a burglar's mind work?" Burglary, on the whole, is an opportunist crime. A burglar will select his target because it offers him the best opportunity to carry out his crime undetected and with the fewest number of obstacles in his way. A building that presents itself as unoccupied and insecure is far more likely to be targeted than one which is properly secured: side gates open accessible windows open ladders left out, allowing access to otherwise inaccessible windows garden tools available to force entry untrimmed hedges or high fences preventing natural surveillance Each of these makes access to the building far simpler and is an indication to the prospective burglar that it's worth a second look. The question is, are the occupants in? milk bottles or parcels on the doorstep newspapers and mail in the letter box unlit houses after dark all windows shut in very hot weather These are signs telling the burglar that he is unlikely to be disturbed in the course of his work. Naturally, circumstances may arise when such situations may be unavoidable. If we can take measures that tell the burglar that this building is too difficult or too risky a target, he will hopefully move on. Make it look as though your house is occupied. install timers which switch lights or radios on and off automatically have a neighbour or friend pop round to clear your letter box or doorstep encourage a neighbour to park on your drive Remember: Remove the Opportunity - Prevent the Burglary Letter boxes Letter boxes / plates should be considered as an aperture which can be used by the criminal, either to extract goods from within in close proximity to the door, commonly door keys, or to work vulnerable locking devices from the inside. Letter plates should conform to British Standard. They should be positioned not closer then 400 mm from the door lock and under no circumstances should they be fitted to the bottom rail of the door. An internal cover plate offers additional security, as does a letter basket, though you might wish to consider removing the bottom, allowing the mail to fall to the floor and thus preventing theft of the mail. Door security A rim latch (Yale type) on its own is not sufficient. The door should also be fitted preferably with a 5 lever mortice deadlock, though insurance companies will accept a rim automatic deadlock; both must be to British Standard 3621 or the equivalent European Standard EN12209. Quality locks are only as strong as the doors and frames to which they are attached. Ensure that the frame is sound and the door suitable for external use; for instance, a wooden hollow core door would not be suitable. It should be of substantial construction, at least 44mm (13/4") thick to support the mortice lock and hung on three strong 100mm (4") hinges. The rim latch and the mortice should be fitted 45 to 60cm (18-24") apart. In the door itself recessed or decorative panels should be a minimum of 9mm (1/3") thick. Consider fitting a London Bar (metal strip on frame side) to support the strike box, or Birmingham bar to support the frame on the hinge side. If the door is weak consider fitting a sheet steel plate or door reinforcer on the outside covering the lock area. Timber frames should be sound and securely bolted or screwed to the the walls every 600mm (23") around the whole frame. Doors with glazed panels are inherently less secure than For added safety and security fit a spy hole and door chain or limiter. These will enable you to deal with callers to your front door whilst retaining a level of security. UPVC/PVCU front doors are generally unsuitable for retro-fit security devices. Not only is the material not strong enough to support devices fitted with steel screws unless secured into the internal metal framework, but such changes to the original design may invalidate an existing warranty or possibly damage the integral locking assembly. If in doubt, consult the installer/manufacturer. Modern designs will usually incorporate deadlock shoot bolts or a multi-point locking system, both throwing a number of bolts from the door into the frame. Under these circumstances there will not normally be any need for additional devices. Advice on front door security while the house is occupied will vary, depending on whom you speak to. Fire Safety Officers will advise that, for safety reasons, the mortice deadbolt should not be engaged when the house is occupied, as locating and engaging the key can cause unnecessary delay in escaping from the scene of a fire. Crime Prevention Officers may suggest that a rim latch on its own is insufficient in providing adequate security and that engaging the lock would increase this, as well as the safety of young children in preventing them from wandering. Clearly these are issues which need to be considered. If you feel fire safety is the priority, additional security can be obtained by fitting draw bolts to the top and bottom of the door Back Door The door should be fitted with a 5 lever 2 bolt mortice sash lock halfway up the door, (a deadlock with a handle for convenience). Unlike front doors, many insurance companies do not specify that they should be to British Standard 3621 or equivalent European Standard EN 12209, though the use of this standard of lock is recommended. The sash lock should be supplemented by mortice rack bolts (bolts fitted approximately 150mm (6") from the top and bottom of the door into the wood and operated internally) or surface-mounted locking bolts top and bottom. They should always be fitted at 90º to the grain of the wood, reducing the likelihood of the wood splitting if subjected to pressure. Any glass panels should be laminated and fitted from the inside to prevent the putty or beading being removed. Grilles could also be fitted to the inside of the panels. French doors Also known as French windows, they are intrinsically less secure than single leaf doors, which may reflect on their comparative lack of popularity as compared with the modern patio door. However, this need not be the case provided that suitable security measures are taken. Both doors should be fitted with mortice rack bolts (bolts fitted within the door and operated internally by a threaded key). They should always be fitted at 90º to the grain of the wood, reducing the likelihood of the wood splitting if subjected to pressure. Alternatively, use surface-mounted locking bolts (push to lock, key to open). Whichever type you use, fit top and bottom to provide rigidity. If the style of door is capable of it, a mortice sash lock can be fitted for extra security (rebate sets may also be equired). As most French Doors are outward opening, the addition of hinge bolts is also recommended. They should be located 100-150mm (4-6") below the top hinge and similarly above the bottom. PS. It would be acceptable, for insurance purposes, for key operated bolts only to be fitted top and bottom of both doors. Consider replacing ordinary or toughened glass panels with laminated glass - two pieces of glass bonded together with a sheet of laminate - as they offer much greater resistance to attack. UPVC/PVCU French doors are generally unsuitable for retro-fit security devices. Not only is the material not strong enough to support devices fitted with steel screws unless secured into the internal metal framework, but such changes to the original design may invalidate an existing warranty or possibly damage the integral locking assembly. If in doubt, consult the installer/manufacturer. Modern designs will usually incorporate deadlock shoot bolts or a multi-point locking system, both throwing a number of bolts from the door into the frame. Under these circumstances there will not normally be any need for additional devices. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Patio door Entry through a patio door is a common means of entry and therefore, unless the doors are fitted with a multi-locking system, it is best to fit extra locks. These are fitted on the bottom fixed frame pushing through to the sliding frame in the centre and on the side frame at the opening point no lower than a third of the way from the top of the door. Most such locks are push to lock and key to open and are therefore easy to use. Make sure there is enough frame to fit them on if drilling is required. If in doubt, consult the installer or manufacturer. A dual screw can be fitted between both frames but it is more awkward to use, so there can be a tendency to leave it unlocked, thus defeating the object. An alternative would be to fit long-throw bolts top and bottom of the opening door. Some patio doors can be lifted off their track. If you can lift it more than 1/4" simply screw wood blocks of a suitable depth into the channel above the opening door to prevent this. Alternatively, anti-lift devices are available from locksmiths. Flats and Apartments Providing the front door is less than 4.5 metres above ground level the advice given in the Doors section is applicable. However, in those situations where this is not the case, i.e., most typically flats two floors or more above ground level, the level of security is dictated, to a degree, by statutory fire regulations. Their basis is that the Fire Brigade should not be hindered unreasonably in its job of rescuing trapped occupants. These regulations prohibit the fitting of a locking device on the front/final exit door which, if operated, requires a key release to open it from the inside. This would exclude the use of standard mortice deadlocks if they can be operated from the inside. They specify that exit from the flat is achieved by the operation of a single action release, opening being accomplished by means of a handle or thumb turn. Communal door security When evaluating communal entry security, Fire Regulations must take precedence over all other considerations. If in any doubt, consult your local Fire Officer as well as your local police Crime Prevention Officer. Construction of doors and frames Wooden doors and frames should be of solid hardwood or solid core construction. The door must be to a minimum thickness of 44mm and the frame should have a rebate of not less than 18mm. Three good quality 100mm hinges and two hinge bolts should support the hinge side. To achieve additional frame strength, consider using steel reinforcing or London/Birmingham bars. Glazed or glass panelled doors should preferably be of a minimum 6.4mm laminated glass or equivalent strength polycarbonate sheet, with consideration given to utilising internal grilles as additional protection, especially where lock releases could be accessed through a broken pane. Before installing polycarbonate sheets you must seek a fire officer's consent. Glazed doors which have no frame, even if constructed of toughened or safety glass, offer little resistance to attack and cannot easily be reinforced. It should not be possible to gain access to locks or security fittings via letter boxes. Their siting into walls sufficiently far from doors or windows should be encouraged. However, if they are fitted to the door, the recommendation is to install a basket or protective plate to prevent the unauthorised operation of the locking devices. In either case, the plate must be sited at least 400mm from the locks. Locking devices Doors without Electronic Access Control Ideally the door should be fitted with a lock which has an automatic deadlocking facility, approximately a third of the way down from the top of the door. Additionally, a mortice deadlock latch should be installed a third of the way up from the bottom of the door and it should be used as often as is practicable. These locks must be suitable for emergency exit purposes, in that they must not require key release from within, opening being achieved by means of a handle or thumb turn. Where there is any conflict between security and fire requirements or legislation, the latter must prevail. In any case of doubt, seek the Fire Officer's approval. All doors must be fitted with an automatic closing mechanism, both properly adjusted and regularly maintained, to ensure that the door is secured at all times. Doors should never be left wedged open, as this not only negates any security within the building, but may also contravene any Fire Regulations. Doors with Electronic Access Control The remote release lock should be of a type that has an electrically operated bolt action with an automatic deadlocking facility, or is a magnetic type lock. It is imperative that the system has a safeguard incorporated, which ensures that the lock can be released in the event of a power failure. Access Control Systems It is preferable that at least one of the following security measures applies: the door is secured at all times and visitors are permitted entry via a remote release facility which is linked to an audio visual or audio only entry-phone. the door is secured at all times and visitors are met personally at the door. the communal entrance is constantly monitored by a receptionist or concierge. Glazing All crime prevention advice is based on the deterrent and delaying value of the various security devices which can be installed. Locks on doors and windows certainly provide the main thrust of the advice, but in themselves they are only part of a complete security package. All single-glazed areas on both the ground floor and other accessible areas can be vulnerable to attack. After all, plain glass is easily breakable. Consider replacing ordinary or toughened glass with laminated glass, two pieces of glass bonded together with a sheet of laminate. This is far more difficult to break through as it will not shatter and will therefore delay any attempt at forced entry, a valuable deterrent. Alternatively, you can place a plastic glazing film over the glazed area to prevent the glass from shattering, though the clarity of the glass will be reduced. When replacing glass in wooden windows use a glazing mastic to bond it to the frame, as it is far tougher than putty. Leaded windows are particularly susceptible in that they offer little resistance to attack. Lead is a soft material with poor tensile strength. To protect them you can install secondary glazing, or, alternatively, fit metal grilles or bars. Such measures can detract from the overall look of your windows, but it is important to be aware of their vulnerability. Lighting ~ Exterior A useful addition to perimeter security can be exterior lighting, either switched manually or automatically operated. Lighting does have its limitations - burglaries often take place during daylight hours; if the light is activated, someone has to notice it - and take action. Lighting should be seen as an aid, but on its own it is not sufficient to deter a burglar. The most common form of lighting is passive infra-red which is activated when someone comes into its field of vision. The light can be set to stay on for a set time and then it will re-set if the cause of its activation is no longer present. A passive infra-red unit can activate single or multiple lights. Lights can be useful on the approach to a front or rear door or garage, not only lighting up if someone approaches your house, but also when you approach, so that you can see if anyone is lurking in the shadows. It must be remembered though that lights can be activated by certain animals. Also, you do not want the light to be activated every time your neighbours go into their garden or when someone walks past the front of your property. However, the field of activation can be adjusted. You must also make sure that your light does not intrude into your neighbours windows or those of passing vehicles - light pollution can often be at the centre of many disputes. An alternative is to fit low pressure sodium lights which are operated by a photo-electric cell. This turns the lights on at dusk and off at dawn. It is a much less obtrusive light and, although it is on all night, it can be cheaper to run than spotlights. These lights can be DIY fitted, but if you are not sure, it is essential that you contact a qualified electrical contractor. Lighting ~ Interior A sensible arrangement of leaving lights switched on inside the house while the house itself is unoccupied can substantially help to give the impression to a passer-by that the house is in fact occupied. It is sensible to use a downstairs room with a drawn curtain and sufficient light inside to suggest that the room is occupied. A light should not be left on solely in the hall - a thief may guess that the premises are unoccupied as it is not normal for the occupants to spend all night only in the hall! There are many automatic devices available - simple and extremely sophisticated - that will turn lights on and off in random fashion and may even be set to control other electrical appliances such as the radio or television. Automatic switching will help to convince the casual thief that the house is occupied. Most of the time security lighting will be all that is necessary to scare off a potential intruder. But do remember, lighting cannot work miracles. It is sensible to make sure that your physical defences - the locks, the bars and window bolts - will resist attack. Let your neighbours know that you are out, and if you are a member of your neighbourhood watch scheme so much the better. You can also inform your local police station that you are away. Wooden casement Fit locks which secure the frames together in preference to locks which simply secure the handle or stay bar. Casement windows, by their very design, need to be locked by securing the window to the frame. Most casement locks are screwed to the window rather than the frame - a weaker system. There are locks which are fixed to the frame and these are probably more secure, as well as being easy to use. There are also locks specifically designed for use on windows with tapered edges (not 90º to the frame). If the window is flush to the frame fit mortice rack bolts (bolts fitted into the window and operated internally with a key). They should always be fitted at 90º to the grain of the wood, reducing the likelihood of the wood splitting if subjected to pressure and fixed into either end of the frame. You might want to consider using door mortice bolts for a longer throw. If you are intending to use the type of lock that screws to the window, the following test is a rough guide to help you to decide how many you will require: with the window closed, press each opening corner. If there is any movement, fit a suitable lock, such as a push lock (push to lock, key to open) at each corner on the opening side. If there is no movement, a lock fitted to the centre of the opening frame will suffice. It is possible to secure wooden casements in the open position for purposes of ventilation, very necessary in hot weather, or child safety. These are particularly appropriate in a ground floor bedroom situation where someone wishes to sleep with the window open. Likewise they are well suited to upper floors where windows can be locked open, allowing ventilation but, at the same time, preventing children from opening the window beyond a safe aperture. Whilst it is recognised that this type of device is designed more for safety purposes rather than security, it would be likely to alert the occupant if an attempt to force it was made. It is intended that these locks should be used only when someone is in residence. If your home is unoccupied the windows should be locked in the usual manner. If you are considering replacing your existing windows, look for the new British Standard 7950 kite mark. It has been established to set specific manufacturing standards of design and security for casement windows. Note: Georgian wired glass may look strong, but it will easily break. It is a fire safety glass not a security glass. Wooden sliding sash You cannot rely on existing central sash fasteners. Sash stops are strong and convenient to use and do not need to be removed from window when opening fully. They can be set into the top frame allowing the window to be left 0pen about 5" for ventilation but still secure. For optimum security fit in pairs. An alternative form of lock is the dual screw. These in effect bolt the two sashes together. An added bonus is that, in so doing, they also reduce draughts. The beading which holds the glass in place is frequently only pinned. The window can be made more secure, either by gluing in addition to pinning or screwing the beading, if wide enough, in place. A modern style is the 'tilt to clean' sliding sash, not only sliding up and down but also tilting inwards for cleaning by undoing two clips on top of each moving sash. These should be secured by fitting both sash stops and dual screws. Metal Crittal You can either secure the window or the handle to prevent opening. One of the main problems with this type of window is the narrow profile of the frame, making it difficult to fit devices. For this reason there are locks specifically designed for this type of window. It is probably easier to secure the handle, where there is normally more room to fit the lock. Use a fanlight lock to secure the fanlight window. Aluminium The highest level of security fitted by the manufacturer on most aluminium windows, including coated aluminium, is a locking handle, but, whilst it would be satisfactory to most insurance standards, it is not particularly secure. This is because it is the handle which is being locked and not the window. As most handles are not of a good casting standard they have a tendency to break under pressure, or come loose from the frame. It is possible to fit extra locks to aluminium windows, but care should be taken to ensure that there is enough metal around the window to be able to fit the lock without contacting the glass. Suitable locks designed for this purpose are available. In the case of sliding horizontal aluminium windows, additional security can be achieved with the fitting of a key operated clamp on the bottom rail of the frame. Windows are often left open to allow the circulation of air, particularly in hot conditions. This, inevitably, reduces the level of security. By fitting a sliding window lock to the bottom rail you can restrict the slide to a few inches. Alternatively, drilling a small hole through the bottom rail at the point at which you wish to restrict the slider and inserting an appropriate sized bolt will suffice. Additionally, to prevent the slider being lifted, fit a wooden block of a suitable depth into the track above the slider. Louvres Louvered windows are not so common as they used to be. In the main, this is because their inherent lack of security is well recognised. There are some measures that can be taken to make them less vulnerable, but these should be seen only as temporary, for overall, it is best to replace them at the earliest opportunity. Some are made with the glass secured in the frame. If not, fix the glass in both frames with an epoxy resin adhesive. If the windows are sited in a vulnerable position, you may need to fit a grille or bars, though the better option would be complete replacement. UPVC / PVCU In many cases it is not possible to retro-fit any extra locks to UPVC windows. This is because the material used is not strong enough to support a metal lock fitted with steel screws. It could also damage the window and perhaps invalidate any existing warranty. Double glazed window locking systems should be fitted at the time of manufacture. A general rule to follow is that the handle should not be the only means of keeping the window closed. The locking system should be fitted within the framework and the handle is used as a means of throwing or engaging the internal locking system. Always consult the manufacturer/supplier before attempting to fit any extra locks. There are locks that can be fitted to UPVC casement windows, but only if there is no integral locking system within the framework, typically where the only means of security is a locking handle. There are two main types of locking systems: The first is espagnolette (multi-point) locking, which are bolts (normally 3 sets) set into the window and located into locking points in the frame when the handle is turned. The bolts should be mushroom headed so that they can engage behind the locking point, thus enabling the window to resist being forced apart from the frame. The second type is deadlock shoot bolts which locate into the frame at both opening side corners. There is also a deadlock which secures the opening side of the window at the handle. The window can also be fitted with high security friction hinges which locate into the frame on the hinge side. For additional strength sections of hardened aluminium or galvanised steel reinforcements should be fitted at the time of manufacture within the hollow profiles of the windows and frames, so that the locking systems can be secured through the UPVC frames into the reinforcements. It is preferable for the windows to be fitted with internal beading to avoid the possibility of the glass being removed from the outside. There are some systems which have external beading but are secure because the glass is adhered to the frame or secured by special tamper-proof clips, but in most cases internal beading is preferable. Lastly, if you are considering replacing your existing windows, look for the new British Standard 7950 kite mark. It has been established to set specific manufacturing standards of design and security for windows. CHECK BEFORE FITTING ANY DEVICES THEY DON'T INVALDATE THE GUARANTEE Secondary glazing Though they are not installed these days, there are still many houses fitted with secondary glazing, mainly aluminium. Because of the narrow profile and intrinsic weakness of the frames, there is very little additional security which can be added. Such glazing has generally been fitted to wooden framed windows, which can be secured by standard window locks. However, sliding secondary glazing can offer additional security with the fitting of a key operated clamp on the bottom rail of the frame. Particularly in hot conditions windows are left open to allow the circulation of air. This, inevitably, reduces the level of security. By fitting a sliding window lock to the bottom rail you can restrict the slide to a few inches. Alternatively, drilling a small hole through the bottom rail at the point at which you wish to restrict the slider and inserting an appropriate sized bolt will suffice. Additionally, to prevent the slider being lifted, fit a wooden block of a suitable depth into the track above the slider. When used in conjunction with stay locks or child safety locks on the primary glazed window, security is enhanced further. Leaded windows These are not secure unless you fit secondary laminated glazing, polycarbonate sheeting, or internal grilles. Looking after your Home (IN BRIEF) A lot of burglaries can be prevented. Most are committed by opportunist thieves, and in two burglaries out of ten the thief does not have to force his way in because a door or window has been left open. Burglars like easy opportunities. They don't like locked windows because breaking glass attracts attention. They don't like security deadlocks on doors because they cannot open them even from the inside and they have to get out through a window. Simple precautions like these do work. So check the security of your home against the advice on these pages, and strengthen the weak spots as soon as possible. A small outlay, will, in many cases, make your home much more secure - and buy peace of mind into the bargain. Strangers: Be alert to people loitering in residential streets. If it is no one you recognise, call the police. Burglar alarms: Visible burglar alarms make burglars think twice. Front Door Roof: A thief could reach first floor windows from this roof - so fit window locks. Gates and Fences: A high wall or fence at the back of a house can put off a burglars. Check for weak spots where a thief could get in. A thorny hedge along a boundary an also be a useful deterrent. Make sure the front of the house is still visible to passers by, so that a burglar can't work unseen. Small Windows: Even small windows like casement windows, skylights or bathroom fanlights need locks. A thief can get in through any gap larger than a human head. Spare Keys: Never leave a spare key in a hiding place like under a doormat, in a flowerpot or inside a letterbox - a thief will look there first. Garages and Sheds: Never leave a garage or garden shed unlocked, especially if it has a connecting door to the house. Lock tools and ladders away so that a thief cannot use them to break in. Looking after your flat Make sure your front door is strong. It should be as strongly built as the main outside door of the block. If it isn't, get another one or ask your local council to do it. Fit hinge bolts which stop someone pulling the door from its hinges. And fix a special steel strip into the doorframe. If your block does not have a telephone entry system, talk to the landlord or council about putting one in. This may be easier if you get together with other tenants to form a tenants' association. If you do have a telephone entry system, don't let strangers in or hold the door open for someone who is arriving as you are leaving. Side passage: Stop a thief getting to the back of the house - where he can work with less chance of being seen - by fitting a strong, high gate across the passage. If you share an alleyway with a neighbour, talk to him or her about sharing the cost. Shared accommodation If you live in a student halls of residence, a bedsit or some other type of shared accommodation, you should try to follow all the home security measures in this booklet. You also need to be careful to keep your room locked when you go out to use the kitchen or bathroom. Don't leave keys in your door, or lying about in any common room. Avoid putting your name or room number on your keyring in case it gets lost or stolen. Never leave cash or valuables on open view in your room; lock them out of sight. Try to limit the amount of jewellery or electrical equipment you keep with you. Always lock main entrance doors behind you. Try to avoid letting anyone you don't know into the building along with you. Be aware of any strangers around the corridors to the building, and report any suspicious activity to the warden, security staff or the police. Strangers at the door The best defences against a doubtful caller are a viewer or spyhole in the door and a stout door chain. Remember, if in doubt, keep them out. Always make sure that visitors are who they say they are. If they say they are from the police, gas, or electricity board, as to see their card. Check it by ringing their local office. Don't use a number on their card, but look it up on the phone book. If you are worried, ring the police. Don't let the caller stop you doing these things by saying he or she is in a hurry. A genuine caller won't mind waiting outside with the door closed while you ring. Remember to keep the door chain on until you are sure your caller is genuine. Be wary of salespeople who call unannounced and try to persuade you to spend your money on an investment scheme. Such schemes don't guarantee you will make any more money, and you could end up losing it. Check with the Securities and Investments Board (Tel 020 7929 3652) that the salesperson is a member of an approved trade body. If they are not, you will not be entitled to any compensation. Be particularly careful of offers from overseas, as you will probably not be able to pursue the case through the courts in this country if you are defrauded. Always seek advice from an independent source. Never sign anything on the spot. Burglar alarms and safes If your possessions are worth a lot of money or you live in an area with a lot of burglaries, you should consider a burglar alarm or a safe. Ranging from inexpensive DIY kits to sophisticated systems costing hundreds of pounds, there are scores of burglar alarms on the market. Quality fitted alarms will certainly be a deterrent to burglars. Easily installable 'wire-free' alarms are now available whereby sensors fitted around the house transmit radio detection signals to a control system. These systems usually take 3-4 hours to fit. Wired alarms are cheaper but take longer - around a day - to install. Get specialist advice and a number of quotes. Consult your insurance company for the companies they recommend. The system installed should meet BS4737 (professionally installed) or BS6707 (DIY). Lighting Good lighting can deter a thief. Some exterior lights have light sensors or an infra-red sensor that switches the light on for a short time when it detects something in its range. Sensors can be bought separately to convert an existing outdoor light into a security one. Doors If your front and back doors are not strong and safe, neither is your home. First of all, make sure the doors themselves are of strong, solid core construction, 44mm thick. Glass panels are especially vulnerable. If any of your doors seem flimsy, replace them with solid core as above. If you are a council tenant, call the housing department about it. Fit back and front doors with a five-lever mortice deadlock, to BS3621 or equivalent. A deadlock can only be opened with a key, so a thief cannot smash a nearby glass panel to open the door from the inside. If the thief enters the property through a window they can't carry your belongings out through the door. If you are intending to install a PVC door, before you buy it, check with the manufacturer that a door chain will be fitted. It can be very difficult and expensive to have a chain fitted to an existing PVC door. Fan light locks have a metal bolt to secure the metal arm used to open and close the window. Door viewers: They mean you can see who callers are before opening the door. Front and back doors: Fit a five-lever mortice deadlock - to BS3621 - and use it. Windows DIY shops sell inexpensive key-operated locks to fit all kinds of window. If you are a tenant you may be able to get the council or landlord to pay to have them fitted for you. A lock forces the thief to break the glass, and risk attracting attention. Secure the most vulnerable windows first: ground floor windows, windows which can't be seen from the street and windows with can be reached from a drainpipe or flat roof. If you are getting new glass for your windows, consider laminated glass - a thief will find it hard to break. As a last resort, think about security grilles for your windows. Louvre windows are especially vulnerable because the slats can easily be removed from the frame. Glue the slats in place with an epoxy resin, and fit a special louvre lock. Better still, replace them with fixed glass. The lock shown here locks the two windows together. A more discreet version is embedded into the wooden frame. Or there are devices to stop the window opening beyond a certain limit. Casement locks make it impossible to open the window without the correct key. Patio doors You should get specialist advice on fitting locks to patio doors. They should have special locks fitted top and bottom unless fitted with a multi-locking system. Also install an anti-lift device to stop a thief simply lifting the door off its rail. Fit security mortice locks to french doors, and mortice bolts to the top and bottom of both doors. With all security, consideration must be given to the risk of fire, and means of escape. Fit a smoke detector, conforming to BS5446. Patio door locks need to be fitted top and bottom. Secured by design If you are buying a new home, look out for the Secured by Design symbol. This scheme has been developed to help homebuyers identify builders who have consulted the police to incorporate crime prevention measures. Standards cover estate design, home security measures and security lighting, and alarm systems. Feel free to Discuss Your needs with us:

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